Arezzo: a fun citta and surrounding area

Arezzo is one of my favorite places to visit. Not because of a bewildering choice of things to do but because it is easy, interesting, entertaining and not over-touristed.

First, let's deal with some of the sights available in Arezzo:

1. The Basilica di San Francesco with the History of the True Cross fresco by Piero della Francesca (fee, tickets available to the right of the church).
2. Piazza Grande with a loggia by Vasari. The piazza is also the site of a monthly antiques fair and the running of the Giostra del Saracino ("Joust of the Saracin", see below).
3. The Cathedral of Arezzo with excellent stained glass windows and another fresco by Piero della Francesca. Before the running of the Giostra the horse for this qaurtiere is brought into the Cathedral to be blessed.
4. The park at the top of Arezzo offers fine views over the countryside, shaded benches and a glimpse of life in an Italian town.
5. Corso Italia offers good shopping.

Giostra del Saracino

Held two times a year, in June (an evening event) and September (a daylight event), the four quartiere of Arezzo come together to compete in a jousting tournament. The target is a mechanical Saraceno rather than other mounted riders. The event is held in Piazza Grande on a dirt ramp specially constructed for each event. Preceding the competition is a parade through the streets, an entrance parade of officials in period costume with much blowing of trumpets and banner waving contests. The fans of each quarter are enthusiastic in their support for their quarteriere's flag wavers and horse and rider, cheering and chanting songs (usually insulting) to their opponents.

Seating is available in grandstands erected for the event . Tickets must be purchased in town at Teatro Comunale di BICCHIERAIA - Via Bicchieraia 32.

Dining

The Trattoria Il Saraceno (Via Giuseppe Mazzini, 6) is a comfortable trattoria with a minimal number of tourists offering excellent food and a comprehensive wine list. The dining is informal, good and fun.

For a richer dining experience go to Ristorante Bucca di San Francesco (Via S. Francesco, 1). Seating is in a wine cellar (or maybe it's just a cellar) and is more formal than at the trattoria. The staff is warm and welcoming and they have an excellent sense of humor.

Out of Town

Head north and east toward Anghiari taking SP43 (not the superstrada E78). About 17 kilometers out of Arezzo, near Scheggia, you'll find an osteria - Il Posta - on the left. If you like pasta, and especially ravioli, you have to have lunch here.

After lunch continue on to Anghiari (30 kilometers from Arezzo). The village is near the location of the Battle of Anghiari, celebrated by Da Vinci in a painting (now long lost). Anghiari is a quiet little village, excellent to wander around in and offering good views of the countryside. There is also an excellent pizzaria in the main piazza.