View Full Version : Italy 2008


Steve Evans
07-15-2008, 05:48 AM
Ciao tutti!

We are back from three weeks in Italia. This year we partnered up with 14 other travelers from our community and rented two villas for a week each. The first was 7 km outside of Sarteano, in southern Toscano. The second was about 20 km outside of Lucca, near Segromigno in Monte, in north west Toscano.

Villa based vacations are, for us, far superior to hotels - you have the opportunity (and requirement) to go shopping at supermercati and alimentari (small grocery stores), macellerie (butcher shops), enoteche (wine shops) and frutta e verdure negozzi (figure that one out yourself). Best of all, the per night costs are fantastic compared to hotels and you've usually got your own pool, gardens, easy parking, a kitchen, refrigerator, washer (sometimes a dryer) and a quiet place to go when you've seen one too many churches or musei!

However, a car is mandatory if you are staying at a villa away from a city center (which must of them are). Driving in Italy is a driver's delight. Italian drivers are rational, fast, impatient, and practical. They usually signal their turns, use their emergency flashers when there is a slowdown on the autostrada, use the left lane for passing only, don't pass on the right except in congested driving and can out drive American drivers while wearing a blindfold.

We started with 3 days a Roma, staying at Hotel Portoghesi, which we recommend. It's just off Piazza Navona. We picked up our rental car (a Lancia Mura, very practical) from Termini Stazione on Saturday morning for the drive to the first villa. We used a Tom Tom 910 GPS to help us out of Roma and it was surprisingly simple. On the way to the villa we stopped off for pranzo in Orvieto. If you want to avoid hordes of tourists Orvieto is a good choice. The duomo is a feast for the eyes.

From Orvieto we drove to the Villa Tramonto (through The Parker Company) and were shown the property by Daniela - a beautiful daughter of the owner. We unpacked and went to the COOP in Chiusi to shop for the week.

Four of us escaped the group to visit Todi (eh) and Spoleto (a good, compact town). We stayed overnight at Palazzo Leti in Spoleto which we can highly recommend. Note that getting to Palazzo Leti, in il centro, is not something you want to do in a "large" car (like a Alfa Romeo 159). Our Lancia Mura had about an inch clearance on either side as we drove out!

The next morning we continued east to il Piano Grande, a 15 km by 7 km plain at 4,500' altitude covered with wild flowers, lentil fields, and sheep. Que bella!! We returned to Villa Tramonto in the afternoon.

We visited Perugia, Sarteano, Montepulciano, Pienza, and Castello Banfi, south of Montalcino. We had the 5-course wine tasting at Castello Banfi and, as always, it was an excellent meal with good wines.

On Saturday we packed up and drove to Buralla (through Tuscany Now), outside of Lucca. After getting settled in we spent the afternoon at the pool and got 10 pizze from Pizza Marcello on Via Nouva in Segromigno in Monte, about 5 km from the villa. Perfetto!

Various members of the group went to the Cinque Terre to hike, all of us went on a bicycle tour in Chianti (Tuscany Bike Tours) and hiked the Orrido di Botri, a green slot canyon north of Bagni di Lucca. Matteo Meacci prepared two great meals for us while we were at the villa, giving the cooks a deserved break!

Finally, Jennifer and I returned to Roma to visit Tivoli (not an easy task), Frascati (where we stayed at Hotel Colonna, excellent) and tour Ostia Antica, better than Pompeii! We boarded our flight and, sadly, returned to Stati Uniti.

Even with fuel running the equivalent of $9.50 a gallon and the euro at $1.57 our vacation cost less per night than Hawaii and the food and wine were a thousand times better!

Ronald82
07-15-2008, 11:19 AM
What a vacation you had Steve..i am sure you enjoyed it a lot

I have been to that Castello Banfi in montalcino area in Toscana..they produces Brunello di montalcino..

next time i suggest you to go to the north east of Italy, to Friuli area if you have never been there- you can always drive up to the border of Italy-Slovenia and there are wonderful food and wine not to be missed....

jeaniegina
07-15-2008, 05:32 PM
Great post, Steve. Good to have you back in the Forum. It sounds like such a wonderful trip!! I hope you will post photos of your trip!

Steve Evans
07-15-2008, 05:36 PM
Ronald,

Thanks for the tip. We've visited Toscano/Umbria on each of our previous trips and new adventures would be good. We'd been considering the Piemonte and Veneto for next year but Friuli might be a better, less traveled choice. It helps that we have friends in Slovenia that we could visit as well.

We appreciate the "bump" to our thinking! Can you recommend a source for accommodations? Agriturismi are abundant in Toscano and Umbria - has that trend caught on in Friuli?

Steve Evans
07-15-2008, 05:39 PM
Great post, Steve. Good to have you back in the Forum. It sounds like such a wonderful trip!! I hope you will post photos of your trip!
It was an excellent trip and I've got to get the photos sorted out (good reminder!). I'll see what I can do this weekend.

James
07-15-2008, 06:03 PM
Sounds like you had a great time Steve! Can't wait to see the pictures

Zidanie5
07-15-2008, 07:41 PM
Great recount, really enjoyed it. I'm glad you had a great time.

Danno
07-15-2008, 10:14 PM
[QUOTE=Steve Evans;11978]Ciao tutti!



However, a car is mandatory if you are staying at a villa away from a city center (which must of them are). Driving in Italy is a driver's delight. Italian drivers are rational, fast, impatient, and practical. They usually signal their turns, use their emergency flashers when there is a slowdown on the autostrada, use the left lane for passing only, don't pass on the right except in congested driving and can out drive American drivers while wearing a blindfold.

Steve, I am sure you said this with tongue in cheek? We wouldn't want people to get the wrong impression of Italian drivers:D

Orvieto has a wonderful little restaurante but I can't tell you what it is because that would advertising and Paolo would strike it out.:rolleyes:

sounds like a wonderful trip.

Steve Evans
07-16-2008, 03:28 AM
Danno,

I really do have respect for Italian drivers - as long as you understand their mindset then what appear to be foolhardy moves are actually time and energy efficiency steps. After all, there is nothing to be gained by plodding along behind a slower vehicle when the 2 lane road will easily accommodate three cars side by side with a little judicious use of the shoulder by the outside cars. When faced with that you should not panic - just move slightly to your right and, if you have time, pull in your side mirror.

Would that ristorante be a little place whose name has something to do with Palms (that's not advertising)? Or the other one, on the piazza, near the duomo?

Ciao

Ronald82
07-16-2008, 11:54 AM
Ronald,

Thanks for the tip. We've visited Toscano/Umbria on each of our previous trips and new adventures would be good. We'd been considering the Piemonte and Veneto for next year but Friuli might be a better, less traveled choice. It helps that we have friends in Slovenia that we could visit as well.

We appreciate the "bump" to our thinking! Can you recommend a source for accommodations? Agriturismi are abundant in Toscano and Umbria - has that trend caught on in Friuli?

i will look for the list and will send it to you when i have it..
agritourism/ oenotourism is flourishing in Friuli although not as famous as the one in Toscana or Umbria..

Danno
07-16-2008, 02:51 PM
Steve, first the driving. Now that I am living back in the states, I have had to relearn how to drive. When I lived in Naples, I learned how to drive with the best of them. There is a method to their madness and once you know the rules , it's easy! I loved to drive the Amalfi Coast and I did it about 2 dozen times. It is amazing how they can take a 2 lane road and turn it into 4 or 5! The drivers in the North are much more "civilized" than they are down south.
The restaurant was the Etruscan Trattoria, straight up from the Duomo. It was actually owned by Egyptians! They had the best minestrone that we have ever tasted and tried to get their recipe but it somehow got lost in translation. We have eaten there about 4 times and always had the minestrone. It was kind of intersting taking to them since I knew a little bit of Arabic and they knew a lot of Italian.

What a wonderful world we live in!!

burntbythetuscansun
08-07-2008, 04:47 PM
There's been a lot of talk these days about all the Americans missing this summer in Italy...And, while the dollar is low, I don't think the prices are really that vastly different than in the USA.
Sure, expensive hotels will still get you, and the cost of gas -- always about 4 times higher than in the U.S. will give you sticker shock, but...really. A meal out still costs about the same as back home.

And certainly, a capuccino at about $1.80 is still a bargain!!!

Steve Evans
08-07-2008, 05:33 PM
Ciao Danno,

Ah, si si! We walked past that trattoria on the way back to the cars. Next time... ;-)

A presto...

Steve Evans
08-07-2008, 06:09 PM
There's been a lot of talk these days about all the Americans missing this summer in Italy...And, while the dollar is low, I don't think the prices are really that vastly different than in the USA.
Sure, expensive hotels will still get you, and the cost of gas -- always about 4 times higher than in the U.S. will give you sticker shock, but...really. A meal out still costs about the same as back home.

And certainly, a capuccino at about $1.80 is still a bargain!!!
We've just completed our end-of-trip accounting and we took a bit of a beating this year. Next year's trip may not happen...

Here's the bottom line:

1) We booked the two villas (one per week) a little less than a year in advance, in US dollars, and for a fixed amount (no adjustments for exchange fluctuations). That was good. However, rates have increased since our booking to reflect the weaker dollar.

2) The additional nights at hotels were booked 4 to 6 months in advance, in Euro. The rates were fixed but since they were in Euro we took a hit. The hotel rooms were between 190 and 230 Euro per night, which doesn't sound that bad until the exchange rate kicks in and they become $285 to $345 per night! Since there were 6 additional nights , that hurt.

3) We found prices for goods to have increased about 5 to 10% since last year. Food has gone up and it showed up when we went to COOP and PAM for the grocery shopping as well as when dining out. Still, dining out in Italy is less expensive, even with the unfavorable exchange rate, than in the US - especially if you have wine! Locally grown foods in small towns have held steady and are good value.

4) Services - we had a couple of meals prepared for the group at one of the villas and took a one day bicycle tour in the Chianti - have held steady.

5) The rental for the car was about the same as last year. The booking was in dollars and the service we used did not adjust for currency fluctuations. Some rental agencies DO adjust the rate so check that when you are shopping for a rental car.

6) Fuel, of course, was up from last year - from 1.15/l to 1.55/l (Euro). Combined with a weak dollar that hurt.

7) The autostrade rates were unchanged but, of course, in Euro.

In talking with people in Italy about tourism there has been a drop off in the number of Americans but most of the slack is being taken up by increased numbers of Europeans. That may change with the worsening global economy and prices for hotels may fall.

Zidanie5
08-07-2008, 07:57 PM
It's a lot about luck, if you make deals at a lucky time you can save much, but it also takes a little cleverness.