Calabrese Americano
05-06-2008, 11:39 PM
MY ITALY
The Italians have a phrase, “Dolce Far Niente”, which means “The sweetness of doing nothing.” I think that phrase defines my Italy, the Italy of a lazy morning, sipping an espresso in the Campo in Siena, or a glass of Chianti at a small tratoria in Castellina. Mine is not the Italy of bus tours and scheduled visits to six museums per day. Nor is it the frantic pace of fourteen cities in as many days. A friend once remarked that we were “travelers” and not “tourists.” I think that’s the difference. I enjoy the experience of being in Italy, not just seeing it. I enjoy staying in a villa in the Tuscan hills, rather than a hotel in the city. There are so many memories that they’re difficult to recount in such a limited space, but I’ll try.
Staying in a villa, as opposed to a hotel, allows you to experience Italy on a personal level. The food, the wine, the people, and the scenery are all at your fingertips. You get to interact with the local folk daily. You’d be surprised how well received the occasional ”Buon Giorno” or “Ciao” is when you’re shopping at the market or just walking through the town square. The Italians love it when you try to use their language. And it’s easier than you’d think (especially when they help). The big cities are beautiful, but the villages in the hills are where you truly can experience the Italian way of life. There are very few tourists and the pace of life goes on as it has for centuries. In a word – relaxed.
The day usually begins with a trip to the groceria and the verdura (the grocery and the fruit and vegetable shop). Electricity is very expensive in Italy, so refrigerators are usually what we would describe as college dorm size. Italians shop every day. Not only for the savings in cost, but because fresh is a religion to them. Get your loaf of bread by morning, or there won’t be any. When fruit or vegetables are in season, the season may only be a few days. There is nothing like fresh bread drizzled with Tuscan olive oil and a dash of salt to start your day. Perhaps a bit of Pecorino Fresca, the famous sheep’s milk cheese to top it off and a piece of fruit and you’re on your way.
If we’re not having dinner at the villa, around 8 o’clock, small groups of us find our way to one of the local restaurants. There are far too many to list, but they’re all good and all memorable. I firmly believe that you cannot get a bad meal in Italy. Dinner is an event in Tuscany. When you are seated at your table, it’s yours for the evening. Stay as long as you like and enjoy yourself. Order a few bottles of the Vino de Casa and a bottle or two of water. Start with an antipasto of bruschetta or proscuito and melon. For soup, perhaps some of the famous Tuscan white bean soup, or ribolita. Next is the pasta course, the primo piatto. It might be penne with oil and garlic, or tagliatelle with wild boar sauce. The main course, the secondo, might be bistecca a Fiorentina, Florentine beefsteak grilled over open fire. The accompaniment, or Contorni, may be spinach with olive oil and pepper, or grilled fennel. By this time you’re getting ready for dolce. You could try the Tiramisu or panna cotta, or do it the Italian way with a little cheese and some fresh peaches. Top off the dinner with a glass of Vin Santo, the sweet “holy wine”, and some cantucci to dip into the glass. Now comes the most difficult part. The check. The phrase that you want to remember is “Il conto, per favore.” It probably won’t do you any good. It just takes a long time to get your check, so sit back, and relax. It will eventually get there. A full course dinner like I’ve described generally will cost about €25 or $30.
After dinner, the group tends to congregate in one of the common areas around the villa. On our most recent trip, that area was directly in front of our apartment. Everyone brings a bottle or two of Chianti and maybe some local taste treat that they found that day, and we tell tales of our adventures that afternoon. Sometimes this goes on until quite late and lots of wine bottles are recycled the next day. (Our record was 63 bottles) This is the time to find out about the best route to Florence, or what new gelato flavors they found in San Gimignano. Sometimes we’ll actually make plans to visit one of the cities, and organize who will ride with whom. You have to do some tourist things, and this is the place to do them. Tuscany is surrounded by beauty and steeped in history. I’ll try to give you a bit of a description of the closer cities. They are Florence, Siena, and San Gimignano. Each of them is close enough to be a one-day visit. In a day you can get a taste of each, but you certainly won’t get your fill. Whether you like to shop, visit museums and cathedrals, or just walk, these cities will charm you.
Florence (Firenze)
Florence is the premier tourist city of Tuscany. It hosts the magnificent collection of the Uffizi Gallery, with its DaVincis and Botticellis, and Michaelangelo’s most famous sculpture, David, in the Galeria Academia. The cathedral of Florence, Santa Maria del Fiore, is more commonly called the Duomo. It is perhaps the most famous landmark with its Brunelleschi dome dominating the skyline. Florence was home to the Medici family, who were the patrons of the Renaissance. My favorite memory of this beautiful city is the view from the top of the dome. It’s a long climb (over 700 steps) to the top, but it is worth it! The dome is actually two in one, and you climb between the inner and outer shells. Of course, this building was constructed during the 15th century. People were considerably shorter then. I’m 6’4”. I ducked a lot!
Siena
Siena is the jewel of Tuscany. I have especially fond memories of this city. My wife and I were married there in the Palazzo Publico in a room decorated in 1497. Signore Rotondo, the Prefetura of Siena, looking every inch the part in his diplomatic sash, performed the wedding. It was a delightful event. My wife was presented with a bouquet of flowers from the city at the end of the ceremony. As we left the Palazzo, our friends showered us with rose petals, and we were filmed by countless strangers, no doubt wondering who these “important” Americans were, since we were permitted to drive into the Campo. And park there, too! We were married during the preparations for the first of the Palios held each year in the Campo. There were parades, drummers, flag throwers and a general feeling of Festa! As a matter of fact, as we left the building, the Unicorn Contrada was holding their parade and we “adopted’ them as our own. The Contrade are the various neighborhoods that the city is divided into. However, the affection for your Contrada goes way beyond what we think of as neighborhood. Each has its own church, its own association, and of course, its own horse for the Palio.
San Gimignano
In the hills of the Chianti region is a city that is sometimes known as the “Manhattan of Tuscany”. San Gimignano is most famous for the towers that dominate the view of this charming town. In the 13th century, San Gimignano was a rich commercial center. Its merchants, trying to make impressive statements of power and wealth, built towers next to their houses and often competed with each other to see whose was the tallest. At one time, there were 72 of these impressive structures. Today, there are twelve left and they are an excellent example of medieval town planning. Part of the movie “Tea With Mussolini” was filmed in San Gimignano and features the towers and the cathedral. It also used one of the city’s best restaurants, “La Cisterna”, as the detainment center. In my opinion, and that of several fellow travelers, this town is also the home of the best gelato in Italy. Try the berry flavor.
Cinque Terre
If you’d like to travel a bit further, the Italian Riviera is within a day’s time. From Tuscany, you can reach the province of Liguria and the western coast in a few hours. There you will find the “Cinque Terre” (the Five Lands). These small villages were inaccessible by land until just a few decades ago. Originally, these villages were built in the rocks to protect them from barbarians and pirates. Although they are now available to tourists, they still preserve their old ways and charm. There are no cars or noise. Each town has a population of less than 500, except for Monterosso, which has a little more than 1,000 residents. The five villages, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza, Corniglia, and Monterosso are connected to each other by sea, by train, and by trails along the coast. The trails are the best way to see these towns. The entire trail can be completed in a day, but you need to be in fairly good shape to do it. The most famous trail connects Riomaggiore and Manarola. It’s known as the “Via del Amore”, and its rocks are covered with the writings of lovers from all over the world. It’s an easy, 20-minute walk. The trails connecting the other villages require a bit more stamina and bravery. There are no guardrails or handholds, and you are walking hundreds of feet above the shore on a path that sometimes narrows to a few feet in width. I really can’t describe the view in words. This is one that you’ll have to see for yourself. The less brave, or less foolish, can take the train through the mountains from village to village for a few thousand lire.
I hope that I’ve been able to give you a hint of what My Italy is like. It’s difficult to put feelings and experiences into words. Something is always lost in the translation. I know that I can’t wait to go back. Until then, I’ll make do with things Italian here at home. You can do the same. Buy some Chianti Classico, put Andrea Boccelli on the CD player, you’ll get a feeling for “Dolce Far Niente.”
The Italians have a phrase, “Dolce Far Niente”, which means “The sweetness of doing nothing.” I think that phrase defines my Italy, the Italy of a lazy morning, sipping an espresso in the Campo in Siena, or a glass of Chianti at a small tratoria in Castellina. Mine is not the Italy of bus tours and scheduled visits to six museums per day. Nor is it the frantic pace of fourteen cities in as many days. A friend once remarked that we were “travelers” and not “tourists.” I think that’s the difference. I enjoy the experience of being in Italy, not just seeing it. I enjoy staying in a villa in the Tuscan hills, rather than a hotel in the city. There are so many memories that they’re difficult to recount in such a limited space, but I’ll try.
Staying in a villa, as opposed to a hotel, allows you to experience Italy on a personal level. The food, the wine, the people, and the scenery are all at your fingertips. You get to interact with the local folk daily. You’d be surprised how well received the occasional ”Buon Giorno” or “Ciao” is when you’re shopping at the market or just walking through the town square. The Italians love it when you try to use their language. And it’s easier than you’d think (especially when they help). The big cities are beautiful, but the villages in the hills are where you truly can experience the Italian way of life. There are very few tourists and the pace of life goes on as it has for centuries. In a word – relaxed.
The day usually begins with a trip to the groceria and the verdura (the grocery and the fruit and vegetable shop). Electricity is very expensive in Italy, so refrigerators are usually what we would describe as college dorm size. Italians shop every day. Not only for the savings in cost, but because fresh is a religion to them. Get your loaf of bread by morning, or there won’t be any. When fruit or vegetables are in season, the season may only be a few days. There is nothing like fresh bread drizzled with Tuscan olive oil and a dash of salt to start your day. Perhaps a bit of Pecorino Fresca, the famous sheep’s milk cheese to top it off and a piece of fruit and you’re on your way.
If we’re not having dinner at the villa, around 8 o’clock, small groups of us find our way to one of the local restaurants. There are far too many to list, but they’re all good and all memorable. I firmly believe that you cannot get a bad meal in Italy. Dinner is an event in Tuscany. When you are seated at your table, it’s yours for the evening. Stay as long as you like and enjoy yourself. Order a few bottles of the Vino de Casa and a bottle or two of water. Start with an antipasto of bruschetta or proscuito and melon. For soup, perhaps some of the famous Tuscan white bean soup, or ribolita. Next is the pasta course, the primo piatto. It might be penne with oil and garlic, or tagliatelle with wild boar sauce. The main course, the secondo, might be bistecca a Fiorentina, Florentine beefsteak grilled over open fire. The accompaniment, or Contorni, may be spinach with olive oil and pepper, or grilled fennel. By this time you’re getting ready for dolce. You could try the Tiramisu or panna cotta, or do it the Italian way with a little cheese and some fresh peaches. Top off the dinner with a glass of Vin Santo, the sweet “holy wine”, and some cantucci to dip into the glass. Now comes the most difficult part. The check. The phrase that you want to remember is “Il conto, per favore.” It probably won’t do you any good. It just takes a long time to get your check, so sit back, and relax. It will eventually get there. A full course dinner like I’ve described generally will cost about €25 or $30.
After dinner, the group tends to congregate in one of the common areas around the villa. On our most recent trip, that area was directly in front of our apartment. Everyone brings a bottle or two of Chianti and maybe some local taste treat that they found that day, and we tell tales of our adventures that afternoon. Sometimes this goes on until quite late and lots of wine bottles are recycled the next day. (Our record was 63 bottles) This is the time to find out about the best route to Florence, or what new gelato flavors they found in San Gimignano. Sometimes we’ll actually make plans to visit one of the cities, and organize who will ride with whom. You have to do some tourist things, and this is the place to do them. Tuscany is surrounded by beauty and steeped in history. I’ll try to give you a bit of a description of the closer cities. They are Florence, Siena, and San Gimignano. Each of them is close enough to be a one-day visit. In a day you can get a taste of each, but you certainly won’t get your fill. Whether you like to shop, visit museums and cathedrals, or just walk, these cities will charm you.
Florence (Firenze)
Florence is the premier tourist city of Tuscany. It hosts the magnificent collection of the Uffizi Gallery, with its DaVincis and Botticellis, and Michaelangelo’s most famous sculpture, David, in the Galeria Academia. The cathedral of Florence, Santa Maria del Fiore, is more commonly called the Duomo. It is perhaps the most famous landmark with its Brunelleschi dome dominating the skyline. Florence was home to the Medici family, who were the patrons of the Renaissance. My favorite memory of this beautiful city is the view from the top of the dome. It’s a long climb (over 700 steps) to the top, but it is worth it! The dome is actually two in one, and you climb between the inner and outer shells. Of course, this building was constructed during the 15th century. People were considerably shorter then. I’m 6’4”. I ducked a lot!
Siena
Siena is the jewel of Tuscany. I have especially fond memories of this city. My wife and I were married there in the Palazzo Publico in a room decorated in 1497. Signore Rotondo, the Prefetura of Siena, looking every inch the part in his diplomatic sash, performed the wedding. It was a delightful event. My wife was presented with a bouquet of flowers from the city at the end of the ceremony. As we left the Palazzo, our friends showered us with rose petals, and we were filmed by countless strangers, no doubt wondering who these “important” Americans were, since we were permitted to drive into the Campo. And park there, too! We were married during the preparations for the first of the Palios held each year in the Campo. There were parades, drummers, flag throwers and a general feeling of Festa! As a matter of fact, as we left the building, the Unicorn Contrada was holding their parade and we “adopted’ them as our own. The Contrade are the various neighborhoods that the city is divided into. However, the affection for your Contrada goes way beyond what we think of as neighborhood. Each has its own church, its own association, and of course, its own horse for the Palio.
San Gimignano
In the hills of the Chianti region is a city that is sometimes known as the “Manhattan of Tuscany”. San Gimignano is most famous for the towers that dominate the view of this charming town. In the 13th century, San Gimignano was a rich commercial center. Its merchants, trying to make impressive statements of power and wealth, built towers next to their houses and often competed with each other to see whose was the tallest. At one time, there were 72 of these impressive structures. Today, there are twelve left and they are an excellent example of medieval town planning. Part of the movie “Tea With Mussolini” was filmed in San Gimignano and features the towers and the cathedral. It also used one of the city’s best restaurants, “La Cisterna”, as the detainment center. In my opinion, and that of several fellow travelers, this town is also the home of the best gelato in Italy. Try the berry flavor.
Cinque Terre
If you’d like to travel a bit further, the Italian Riviera is within a day’s time. From Tuscany, you can reach the province of Liguria and the western coast in a few hours. There you will find the “Cinque Terre” (the Five Lands). These small villages were inaccessible by land until just a few decades ago. Originally, these villages were built in the rocks to protect them from barbarians and pirates. Although they are now available to tourists, they still preserve their old ways and charm. There are no cars or noise. Each town has a population of less than 500, except for Monterosso, which has a little more than 1,000 residents. The five villages, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Vernazza, Corniglia, and Monterosso are connected to each other by sea, by train, and by trails along the coast. The trails are the best way to see these towns. The entire trail can be completed in a day, but you need to be in fairly good shape to do it. The most famous trail connects Riomaggiore and Manarola. It’s known as the “Via del Amore”, and its rocks are covered with the writings of lovers from all over the world. It’s an easy, 20-minute walk. The trails connecting the other villages require a bit more stamina and bravery. There are no guardrails or handholds, and you are walking hundreds of feet above the shore on a path that sometimes narrows to a few feet in width. I really can’t describe the view in words. This is one that you’ll have to see for yourself. The less brave, or less foolish, can take the train through the mountains from village to village for a few thousand lire.
I hope that I’ve been able to give you a hint of what My Italy is like. It’s difficult to put feelings and experiences into words. Something is always lost in the translation. I know that I can’t wait to go back. Until then, I’ll make do with things Italian here at home. You can do the same. Buy some Chianti Classico, put Andrea Boccelli on the CD player, you’ll get a feeling for “Dolce Far Niente.”